Marshall Street may be the closest place to stop for quick bite to eat, but it’s not the only walkable option. Just a 10-minute stroll down Irving Avenue, across from Syracuse Stage/ SU Drama Complex, you can grab a classy but affordable meal at Phoebe’s Restaurant & Coffee Lounge.

William Eberhardt renovated and opened the location at 900 E Genesee St. as a bistro under the name Phoebe’s Garden Café in 1976, according to the restaurant’s website. He installed the ornately carved bar that still stands in the restaurant today, and in 2004, the restaurant underwent another remodeling and a menu change. Phoebe’s Garden Café became Phoebe’s Restaurant & Coffee Lounge when a take-out counter for quick coffees and breakfast cakes was installed.

Inside, the atmosphere is dark and vintage. The original tin ceiling is still intact and the dark red paint on the walls and paneling gives the room a delightful, old world feel.

I was seated by a window looking out into the street and at the Syracuse Stage/ SU Drama Complex. The small walled-in porch has a certain Bostonian or London feel.

The server introduced the day’s specials, which included the daily hummus — chives and asparagus — as well as a seafood chowder with salmon, sea bass and tuna. Both the hummus and the chowder were pleasing. The hummus was a very natural consistency, flavorful and fresh. The seafood soup was hearty, creamy and perfect for the bitter Syracuse cold.

The menu admittedly did not have the largest selection, though I did happen to be eating from their mid-day menu, reserved for the hours between 4 and 6 p.m. Nevertheless, the selections they have are broad enough to appeal to a wide range of tastes. They had a classic burger and chicken sandwich, but they also had arborio crusted fried calamari and an artichoke sun-dried tomato Tuscan penne. There is also a sizable beer and wine menu, including some local and regional brews.

For the entree, I ordered the sweet potato risotto, served with steamed garlic spinach and a choice of mushroom, shrimp or chicken, parmesan and a tangy balsamic sauce. The risotto was different from other risottos I’ve eaten — the sweet potato gave it a different flavor than traditional Milanese risotto, which is made with chicken stock and parmesan. The spinach was steamed nicely — not too mushy and not too raw — and seasoned with the perfect amount of garlic and salt.

Perhaps because I was sitting by the window, I found my meal going cold faster than I anticipated, and I would have preferred it hotter than it was served. However, the portion size was modest but filling. Best of all, the price was not expensive and definitely affordable for a college student. The other items on the menu were similarly priced.

The dessert menu, again, is rather small and offered fairly basic options. I enjoyed a New York-style cheesecake with raspberry reduction and whipped cream. The cheesecake was fantastic, but I felt the raspberry tasted a little less fresh than I would have liked. It had that sweetness that only artificial and preserved fruit have, and while it was good, it wasn’t outstanding. The whipped cream was definitely not homemade.

Overall, Phoebe’s offers quality food for a decent price. While it doesn’t necessarily offer the biggest selection, the menu definitely caters to different palettes and allows people with all tastes to find something they will love.

Published on January 24, 2016 at 8:58 pm

Contact: cmrussel@syr.edu | @caseymrussell