Orange, purple, lime green and gold: The outside appearance of Consuela’s West Side Taqueria & BBQ provides a brilliant splash of color to a wintry, gray Syracuse afternoon. Inside, the décor is just as vibrant, as is the story behind how Consuela’s came to be.

Jan Maloff, owner of the taqueria, which opened six weeks ago,had zero knowledge about running a restaurant when he started renovating the property a year and a half ago. However, he knew a lot about the Westside community of Syracuse. Maloff connected with the community through various involvements, such as being the manager of a local funeral home and being the organizer of an annual bike giveaway. He sensed a need to be filled.

‘There was no place that the people in this neighborhood could sit down, eat food that was germane to their diet and do it affordably,’ Maloff explained.

Inside, the taqueria has a very authentic Latin American feel. The chairs are bright red and purple, and a chain of yellow-, pink- and maroon-painted roses winds around the top of the resplendent green wall. A large painting of a Mexican dancer, painted in the center of one wall by a local artist, immediately catches the eye. Meanwhile, delicious smells waft from the restaurant’s second room, where diners can have their orders created for them, assembly-line style. Choices include burritos, quesadillas, taco bowls, plates, empanadas or tacos.

With several different Latin cultures coming together in the Near Westside, Maloff wanted to open a restaurant that catered to the community, so Consuela’s serves food that fuses Mexican, Cuban and Puerto Rican influences together. Half of Consuela’s namesake, the BBQ ribs and chicken, are only available Thursday through Saturday, so my dining partner and I decided to try the taco salad bowl, a beef burrito and the newest menu item, fish tacos. 

Maloff makes a point to only employ locals, and he said he hopes that his restaurant will become a community meeting place known for its welcoming atmosphere and authentic cuisine. 

We had the server load our taco bowl with shredded pork, Spanish rice, pinto beans, cheese, salsa, Jalapeno peppers, lettuce, tomato, guacamole and cilantro.  The shredded pork, a Consuela’s specialty, has been smoked for 10 to 12 hours in the small smoker-on-wheels that Maloff parks outside the restaurant.  Juicy, tender and with just the right amount of sweetness and spice, the pork blends with the other toppings deliciously.  The homemade tortilla bowl is light and flaky, and melted in my mouth with each bite.  For only $7.95, this gargantuan portion feels like a ridiculously good deal. 

The fish tacos offered another equally pleasant surprise. Big hunks of lightly breaded haddock were stuffed into a traditional taco shell with lettuce, cheese and tomato. But the best part was the special sauce drizzled on top, which tasted both tangy and spicy.  Although the beef burrito was more common than either of the other two meals, the freshness of the ingredients as well as the quantity of savory meat heaped into the soft tortilla impressed me.   

Alongside our meals we sipped Goya sodas — pineapple- and fruit punch-flavored.  Maloff stocks up on these super sweet Hispanic drinks that add even more authenticity to the atmosphere of the restaurant.  Even though we filled up pretty early into our feast, my dining partner and I couldn’t resist eating almost every last morsel. The food tasted that amazing.

‘This area is undergoing a renaissance,’ Maloff said, referring to the Westside, which until recently has had a pretty bleak reputation.  Through his newly opened Consuela’s, he plans to encourage that renaissance. 

My advice: Ditch Chipotle and head to the Westside for authentically delicious Latin cuisine. Go on a weekday to enjoy the free Wi-Fi while munching on a quesadilla, or stop by on a Saturday night to taste the freshly smoked BBQ ribs — as an added bonus, Consuela’s allows patrons to bring their own alcohol. From now until Feb. 14, Conseula’s is even offering a buy-one-get-one-free deal to any student with his or her SUID. So go on over and eat your fill, and feel good knowing that you’re helping Maloff spur the transformation of the neighborhood. 

jidonfro@syr.edu

Published on January 17, 2012 at 12:00 pm