There’s a game of musical designers being played in the fashion world right now.

German clothing brand Jil Sander announced Thursday that head designer Raf Simons will step down Monday. Taking his place is the label’s founder and namesake, Jil Sander. Furthermore, Simons is rumored to move to the head designer position at Dior.

During his seven years at Jil Sander, Simons developed the brand’s minimalist aesthetic to great acclaim. His thoughtful and precisely cut clothing made a strong impression in spite of its simplicity. Celebrities like Tilda Swinton and Kate Bosworth have worn Simons’ designs on the red carpet. In a Feb. 24 New York Times piece, fashion critic Cathy Horyn praised his recent work for Jil Sander.

‘His spring 2012 collection, with its simple white cotton evening dresses, was among the most beautiful seen anywhere in recent years,’ Horyn said.

Simons presented his final runway show for Jil Sander Feb. 25 during Milan Fashion Week. His career at the label ended on a high note with a collection of elegant and voluminous overcoats, 50s-style high-waisted dresses and even a jumpsuit or two. The show kicked off with charming pastel tones, but concluded with a series of black looks that reflected Jil Sander’s shadowy fall menswear collection.

Cathy Horyn reported the audience gave Simons a heartfelt standing ovation at the show’s close. Simons appeared from backstage to acknowledge the audience with tears in his eyes.

It is a shame Simons is leaving Jil Sander amid such success and popularity. While Simons will definitely continue designing for his eponymous menswear line, having only one show a season from him would be a loss for the fashion world. The potential move to Dior would provide him with an exciting platform for expressing his unique vision.

The French fashion house has been without a head designer since March 2011 when John Galliano was fired for making anti-Semitic remarks in a Paris café. The flamboyant designer brought innovative drama to the label for 14 years. But when the video of him drunkenly declaring ‘I love Hitler’ surfaced, he was dismissed.

Since Galliano’s departure, rumors of his replacement circulated widely. Marc Jacobs and Alexander Wang were both thought to be possible candidates for the head designer position. LVMH, the luxury goods conglomerate that owns Dior, has so far refused to comment on Simons’ departure, according to a Feb. 24 Reuters article.  

If Simons does move to Dior, it will be interesting to see how his minimalist design sensibility fits into the brand’s more glamorous and avant-garde style. Dior will certainly benefit from having a strong figure with artistic vision at its helm. Since Galliano’s departure, a group of design assistants led by Bill Gaytten put on Dior’s fashion shows with varied success. It is hoped charismatic a new designer leading the brand will provide new direction.

Another thing to consider is how easily Jil Sander will fall back in with her namesake label. Pulitzer Prize-winning fashion critic Robin Givhan noted this in a Feb. 25 Daily Beast article.

‘She returns to a brand that has grown up and flourished without her. … One is left to wonder not whether Sander can live up to her own legacy, but whether she can live up to (Simons’s).’

Since leaving her company after conflict with the label’s owner, Jil Sander has done little design work, aside from the popular J+ collaboration with Uniqlo. In spite of that, Sander feels she is ready to return.

‘It will be a great challenge and a greater joy to design Jil Sander’s contemporary identity,’ Sander said in the Feb. 24 New York Times piece.

Perhaps this shuffling of designers will infuse these brands with some new energy. Jil Sander’s homecoming is an exciting prospect, and if the rumors are true, we can look forward to a new perspective at Dior. One thing is for sure: If and when the designers debut their collections at their new labels this summer, the fashion world is sure to be buzzing with excitement — and with luck, beautiful clothes.

Ian Simon-Curry is a sophomore public relations major. His column appears occasionally. He tries not to look a mess, but he is not above wearing sweatpants to the dining hall. Follow him on Twitter at @incrediblyian. He can be reached at insimonc@syr.edu.

Published on February 26, 2012 at 12:00 pm

Contact Ian: insimonc@syr.edu